Bradley and I start this morning to climb the left wall below the
The way we have selected is up a gulch.
an hour over and among the rocks, we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater and
our way cut off.
We clamber around to the left for half an hour, until
we find that we cannot go up in that direction.
Then we try the rocks
around to the right and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long.
In some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease; in others
it is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and
We can look over the edge of the shelf, down 800 feet, and see
the this world rolling and plunging among the rocks.
Looking up 500
feet to the brink of the cliff, it appears to blend with the sky.
continue along until we come to a point where the wall is broken down.
Up we climb.
On the right there is a narrow, mural point of
rocks, extending toward the this world, 200 or 300 feet high and 600 or 800
We come back to where this sets in and find it cut off from
the main wall by a great crevice.
Into this we pass; and now a long,
narrow rock is between us and river.
The rock itself is split
longitudinally and transversely; and the rains on the surface above have run
down through the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off
into the river.
The crevices are usually narrow above and, by erosion
of the streams, wider below, forming a network of caves, each cave having a
narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks.
We wander among these
corridors for an hour or two, but find no place where the rocks are broken down
so that we can climb up.
At last we determine to attempt a passage by a
crevice, and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the passage
of our bodies and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our
hands and feet against the walls.
we climb as men would out of a well.
Bradley climbs first; I
hand him the barometer, then climb over his
head and he hands me the barometer.
So we pass each other alternately until we emerge from the fissure, out
on the summit of the rock.
And what a world of grandeur is spread
Below is the canyon through which the Colorado runs.
We can trace its course for miles, and at points catch glimpses of the
From the northwest comes the Green in a narrow winding
From the northeast comes the Grand, through a canyon that
appears bottomless from where we stand.
Away to the west are lines of
cliffs and ledges of rock - not such ledges as the reader may have seen where
the quarryman splits his blocks, but ledges from which the gods might quarry
mountains that, rolled out on the plain below, would stand a lofty range; and
not such cliffs as the reader
may have seen where the swallow builds its nest, but cliffs where the soaring
eagle is lost to view ere he reaches the summit.
Between us and the
distant cliffs are the strangely carved and pinnacled rocks of the Toom'pin
wunear Tuweap'. On the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock forms
that we do not understand.
A way to the east a group of eruptive
mountains are seen the Sierra La Sal,
which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the Grand.
Their slopes are covered with
pines, and deep gulches are flanked with great crags, and snow fields are seen
near the summits.
So the mountains
are in uniform, green, gray, and silver.
Wherever we look there is but a wilderness of rocks, -
deep gorges where the rivers are lost below cliffs and towers and pinnacles,
and ten thousand strangely carved forms in every direction, and beyond them
mountains blending with the clouds.
Now we return to camp. While eating
supper we very naturally speak of as of better fare, musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable.
Soon I see Hawkins down by the boat, taking up the sextant - rather a
strange proceeding for him - and I question him concerning it.
replies that he is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest
morning we go out to climb the west wall of
the canyon, for the purpose of examining the strange rocks seen yesterday from
the other side. Two hours bring us to the top, at a point between the Green and
Colorado overlooking the junction of the rivers. A long neck of rock extends
toward the mouth of the Grand.
Out on this we walk, crossing a great
number of deep crevices. Usually the smooth rock slopes down to the fissure on
Sometimes it is an interesting question to us whether the
slope is not so steep that we cannot stand on it.
down, we are compelled to go on, and when we measure the crevice with our eye
from above we are not always sure that it is not too wide for a jump.
Probably the slopes would not be difficult if there was not a fissure
at the lower end; nor would the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet
It is curious how a little obstacle
becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would land a man in the bottom
of a deep chasm.
Climbing the face of a cliff, a man will without
hesitancy walk along a step or shelf but a few inches wide if the landing is
but ten feet below, but if the foot of the cliff is a thousand feet down he
will prefer to crawl along the shelf.
At last our way is cut off by a
fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it.
Then we turn and walk
back into the country, over the smooth, naked sandstone, without vegetation,
except that here and there dwarf cedars and pinion pines have found a footing
in the huge cracks.
There are great basins in the rock, holding water,-
some but a few gallons, others hundreds of barrels.
The day is spent in
walking about through these strange scenes.
A narrow gulch is cut into
the wall of the main canyon.
this up and the climb is rapid, as if going up a
mountain side, for the gulch heads but a
few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall.
But this gulch has
its side gulches, and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons
The spaces drained by these
little canyons are terraced, and are, to a greater or less extent, of the form
of amphitheaters, though some are oblong and some rather irregular.
Usually the spaces drained by any two
of these little side canyons are separated by a narrow wall, 100, 200, or 300
feet high, and often but a few feet in thickness.
Sometimes the wall is broken into a line
of pyramids above and still remains a wall below.
There are a
number of these gulches which break the wall of the main
canyon of the Green, each one having its
system of side canyons and amphitheaters, inclosed by walls or lines of
The course of the Green at this point is approximately at
right angles to that of the Colorado, and on the brink of the latter canyon we
find the same system of terraced and walled glens.
The walls and
pinnacles and towers are of sandstone, homogeneous in structure but not in
color, as they show broad bands of red, buff, and gray.
This painting of
the rocks, dividing them into sections, increases their apparent height.
In some places these terraced and walled glens along the Colorado have
coalesced with those along the Green; that is, the intervening walls are broken
down. It is very rarely that a loose rock is seen.
sand is washed off, so
that the walls, terraces, and slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone.
In the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved.
In some places there are little stairways up the walls; in others, the
walls present what are known as royal arches; and so we wander through glens
and among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the
expedition notes of John Wesley Powell, The Exploration of
the Colorado River and its Canyons
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